Agree to Disagree

Skyping a friend from home, and then taking a second to realize where I am. While she was speaking to me from her bedroom in NY, I was speaking to her from my classroom on the Kibbutz, which happens to be a bomb shelter. Twice today sirens went off, once in the morning, and once again in the evening. We were warned in advance that this week there will be national emergency drills for the next couple of days.  The other day I went swimming on a Kibbutz 10 minutes from mine, and noticed something a bit odd about the childrens' swing structure. It was made out of an old missile. Playing "Call of Duty" (video game) shooting virtual weapons, and then seeing the same weapon from the game in front of me, knowing that this one had the actual ability to kill. Being told that Israeli's won't read a resume if it's longer than one page, "we just don't have time for that. there is always a war going on." A reality that the citizens of this country live in, and that I will soon be a part of.

As my program, Intensive Arabic Semester, is down to the final couple weeks, I am thankful for the invaluable cultural experiences this program has allowed me to partake in. To think I came here to Wadi Ara (a region an hour north of Tel Aviv) 4 months ago, and can now speak hours on end in Arabic, is beyond gratifying. I have been surrounded by the same group of people for the past several months, participating in a program run by an open-minded organization, Givat Haviva  (winner of the UNESCO prize for peace education). I went to Tel Aviv a couple days ago for a meeting for "Olim Chadashim" (new immigrants to Israel). I was in utter shock from the reaction I got when I told the group I was studying Arabic. One girl asked me "if the Arabs are really short." and then continued on to ask me "so they must be talking about Syria right? I'm sure that's all they're talking about right now; their loyalty to Syria." When I told the advisor of the program that I am studying Arabic, she looked at me in disgust, and asked me why. She then told me I should omit from my resume where I live. 

After returning from Tel Aviv, a city with virtually no Arabs, I have realized how just an hour south from my home, people's mindsets are completely different. How could I even go about explaining what I have learned the past several months? I can't. It's something you have to experience for yourself. 

In the meantime, I'm taking advantage of every day I have left here on Kibbutz Barkai. Soon I will be living in the crazy city of Tel Aviv, looking for a job, and studying Hebrew! I still plan to continue my Arabic studies as well. 

Today I am also thankful for the American soldiers who have lost their lives fighting for America. #MemorialDay

As you may know, since my last blog post, I am in the process of becoming an Israeli citizen. This decision came after much thought, and weeks of weighing the pros and cons. Of course moving to a new country, alone, is not easy. I know I will have many challenges ahead of me, but I am ready to take them head-on. I go through phases of being excited, and others of feeling nervous. I have been extremely thankful for the support of my parents, family, and friends since I made the final decision. When I tell anyone from the states I am making Aliyah, they all seem happy for me, and say Congrats. I seem to get a mixed response from Israelis. Many ask me why I would want to live here instead of America, and others think I'm crazy. It is hard to explain to an Israeli the large cultural differences between the States and here. No country is perfect, but if I left now, I know would regret it.

I understand that my life now is a "bubble" in a way. I live on a Kibbutz, in the middle of Wadi Ara, with an amazing group of people that I have grown very close to. I study Arabic, and have it pretty easy. I know when I choose to establish myself here, it won't always be like this.

On Wednesday, I got the opportunity to travel with a 10th grade class from Baqa-Al Gharbiyye (an Arab city 10 min from the Kibbutz) to a High school in Tel Aviv (with Jewish students). Both classes have been reading the same novel, "A time to Kill" for the past several months, in their respective English classes. When I found out this novel was about rape, and murder, I was surprised. For some reason, I did not think an Arab school would teach such controversial topics. This program, called "Book Club" was taking place for the first time. It is a program funded through Harvard, which payed for the books and coordinator. It was interesting to watch the Arab students interact with the Israelis. They sat divided on separate sides before the discussion began.  Perhaps this same thing would have happened if any two High school classes were to meet. I am not sure. Some interesting cultural difference emerged. The hosting school had provided snacks for all of the students. The staff of the Jewish school did not understand why the Arab students would not eat any. Someone from my program explained how the Arab students must be offered the food, they won't just dig in. The staff began dividing the food on plates and serving it. The classes were divided into mixed groups, where they had to answer questions about the novel. It was nice watching the Arab students, and Jewish students exchange ideas and opinions. They all seemed to enjoy it. On the bus ride back, some of the Arab girls were showing me and my roommate pictures on their phones. (They love to show us their iphone pictures. Yes, all of them have iphones.) We were quite concerned with one of the pictures we saw. 

"You know you're in love when that person keeps hurting you but you keep forgiving them and hoping they will change." 

Both of us reacted by saying "mish hiloo, mish sahih!" (not nice, not right). They young girls (14-15) all yelled back "noo, hiloo!" They didn't see a problem with this message. When we told the other students on our program, from America, Australia, and England, they agreed this message was disturbing and could promote domestic/emotional abuse. We further asked one of our instructors who teaches Arabic, and she actually had the same reaction "hiloo"(nice). We determined this is part of the Arab culture in this area. The girls saw this message as a positive one. Who were we to tell them otherwise. When I met with my host family in Baqa (the same city) on Thursday, I was relieved to hear  the response of my host sister (also in 10th grade) on this same picture. She reacted quite differently. She told me this message was backwards, and not right. We ended up having many deep, controversial conversations. We talked about what her expectations were of hosting an American student. Her and her family had no idea I was Jewish, all they knew is that I would be a foreigner. She told me she thought I would show up the first day in short shorts and an inappropriate outfit, like she sees on American TV. She was pleasantly surprised when I showed up dressed more conservatively. I asked her why she wanted to host an American student. Her response blew me away. She said she didn't care so much about learning English from me, but she wanted to show me, and American, that not all Muslims are the same. She wanted me to see that her family is just like many other families. They are 4 kids, and two loving parents. I have grown to see many more similarities than differences since I have started spending time with them. She said she's also learned a lot from me. She was surprised when I said I keep kosher, yet am still interested in learning about her culture. Her dad ended up joining in on the conversation. He was very pleased that we were talking about such political topics. (I was previously worried to bring these up with her, and especially her parents). What her dad had to tell me, was very saddening, but honest. We spoke in Arabic, and it was amazing to be able to have this conversation in his native language. He told me how his family is from this land (Israel) from many generations back. He gets angered that he has to be severely questioned in security checks at the airport like he's a terrorist. His daughters as well. He has been a bus driver for 10 years, yet makes the same salary as a Jewish bus driver who has only been working for one. (Unequal pay). He also explained to me how he thinks it's unjust that Israeli-Arabs must learn Hebrew in school, yet the Jews do not learn Arabic. The daughter too explained how in public school, she is only taught about the history of Israel and the Jewish people. If anything is mentioned about Arabs, it seems to be negative. (Her whole HS is Arab, yet she goes to a public school in Israel). Mai (my host sister) explained to me how she is ISRAELI. She is a citizen of Israel, and likes her life here. She sees what is going on in Syria, and surrounding Arab States, and is thankful to be here. It is true that Arab-Israelis here have much better lives than they might in the surrounding countries, but they still do not have equal rights in many parts of society here. We talked for about an hour. The father was right when he said many Americans think all Arabs are terrorists. I have heard this many times before, even from educated individuals; it is not right, and needs to stop. After this conversation we had a pretty American meal! (Coke, corn on the cob, chips, and strawberry/banana milkshakes) 

Little Deebe. Such a cutie

Oh.. and I made Dolma (grape leaves with rice) from scratch the other day. Was awesome. 

Peace out,

J 

An amazing day in Nazareth

Wow. Today was amazing. At 3 pm me and a couple classmates headed to Nazareth with one of our Arabic teachers. Since the start of the program, we have had the opportunity to study with a couple different groups of students. We used to study Arabic with a group of "Shabbab" (Arabic for youth) who were training for the Israeli army. We also studied with people in their 20s who were merely interested in learning Arabic. Now, every Wednesday, we study with a group of 10 adults who are 30-65. I've noticed that any Israeli above the age of 21/22 (post-army) who chooses to study Arabic, does so for a similar reason; they all have a glimpse of hope that Israel will someday be in a more peaceful situation than it is today. I used the word "glimpse," because many are doubtful.  Especially in these times, I've noticed many people having a sense of lost hope in ever reaching a peace agreement. Coming from America, it's hard to fathom, there are two nations living here. Both of these nations have religious influences on their politics, beliefs, and daily lives.
Back to today.. we met our classmates in Nazareth. We are such a diverse group.. I love it! One woman is a former member of Kinesset (Israeli Parliament), one a pediatrician, one a manager of Cafe Cafe (an Israel Cafe/food chain), and many are retired. Our first stop was a Church. A class full of Jews studying Arabic, visiting a church.. if I haven't made it clear how special of a country Israel is.. idk what more to say.

Apparently in China, mother Mary and Baby Jesus are Chinese

After the visit to the Church, we went to an incredible organization for Arabic-speaking children  with Diabetes. The founder of the organization is only 26, and was diagnosed with Diabetes when he was 19. There are currently over 180 children from around Israel who participate (both Christians and Muslims. Christian Arabs are a small minority in Israel). There still exists a stereotype in the Arab culture that being "sick" with anything is shameful. Many children who suffer from diabetes are too embarrassed to admit it to anyone outside their direct family, and keep it a secret. Such a large part of the Arab culture is being welcoming, and feeding your guests several cakes and other desserts. These children accept the offer, because they don't want to explain why they can't have them. This organization works at decreasing the stigma of being diabetic, and using insulin. These children are taught to be brave, and not fear being open with others about their health conditions.

My classmates, and the volunteers at the organization, introduced ourselves (in Arabic of course), and answered this question. This intro took almost 2 hours.. 

Afterwards, at 9 pm, we stopped at a local Falafel place, and stuffed our faces.. Middle Eastern style. We even went next door and got some Kinaffe (an Arabic dessert which has melted cheese in the middle..yum!). We got back to the Kibbutz at around 10. It still surprises me how much I learn everyday on this program!

Mix of Emotions

It has been over a month since my last blog entry. When I first started my program, everything from cuisine, to the Kibbutz experience, was new and exciting to me. As I approach my 4th month in Israel, most things that were strange or foreign to me have become normal. I feel that I have acculturated even more than when I was abroad two years ago. Commemorating Yom Hashoa (Holocaust remembrance day) and Yom Hazikaron (Remembering the soldiers who lost their lives in Israel) has a much more eerie feeling than in the Sates. Yom Hashoa has always affected me because my Zady (Yiddish for grandfather) was a Holocaust survivor in one of the most horrific concentration camps (Auschwitz). The main difference between Yom Hashoa in Israel, and the rest of the world, is the loud siren that sweeps across the entire nation. Everything stops. Traffic goes to a halt, and everything falls silent. I can't help but get emotional whenever I hear it. Yom Hazikaron had a much deeper effect on me this time than ever before. While living on the Kibbutz, I have become good friends with soldiers from Israel, and also from abroad. Knowing what they go through to defend this country, some without a choice, has been a lot for me to handle. When the siren went off for Yom Hazikaron, I couldn't help but cry thinking about them and what they do every day and how thankful I am they're still alive. 

If you could imagine, there is almost a non existent time gap between commemorating those who have lost their lives, and celebrating the independence of Israel. The holiday's merely blend. 

For Yom Haatzmaut (Israel Independence day) I decided to stay on the Kibbutz. It was a huge celebration with fireworks, dancing, cake, etc. 

It's hard to believe that Israel is only 65 years old. Such a young country, with so much conflict surrounding it. Especially as an Arabic student, I am constantly exposed to many narratives. The day after the Israelis/Jews from around the world celebrate Israel's Independence, the Arabs rename the holiday "The Nakba" directly translating to "The catastrophe." Under Israeli school systems, they are legally not allowed to discuss the existence of "The Nakba." The conflict in this area dominates in all aspects of life here. Whether it be stereotypes learned from a young age, or actual violence, it is imminent. Israel is an extremely young nation, and I can only hope that peace efforts will have more of an effect in the future. After all, neither the Arabs or the Israelis will be disappearing. They live here "side by side," and must be able to do so in a non-violent way. I say this as their was yet another rocket attack into Southern Israel today. I think it's sad that no one even mentions it. The only reason I know is from my Twitter account. As you can tell, these past couple weeks have been a mix of emotions for me. Every week I learn a new layer of the complex situation bearing upon this part of the world. At the same time, I try to see all sides from a neutral standpoint. I have two months left on this program, and I can't wait to further improve my language skills in both Hebrew and Arabic. I am really enjoying my time here, but of course miss my friends and family!! (Shout out to Papa Black for being awesome, and you too Mama Black :). and duh madi. and you too if your'e reading this bro). (and voj. I'd feel like you'd read this). 

J

StandStill

This past week and a half has felt like a standstill. I am starting to realize how intense it is learning another language, several hours a day, almost every day! My brain needs a break. Thankfully, Passover break is coming up soon. Since my last blog entry, there was a giant Purim party at my Kibbutz. My Kibbutz is known as "the cemetery." So.. I was proud when we had the biggest party in the neighborhood! The music was almost all American, there was a smoke machine, and an open-bar. Only in Israel does a party take place in the dining hall. Every other person was chain-smoking cigarettes, in a place where they serve meals during the day. I couldn't imagine this flying in America! Anyways, it was a great party.

Me and my friend Al :)

A couple days later we took a field trip to a place called "Ein Hod." To Israelis, this city is known for its abundance of art. To many Arabs, it is known as a place where Israelis exiled their families during the 1948 war for Israel's independence. The narratives between the Israelis and the Israeli Arabs / Palestinians are completely different. I try my best to take a non-bias approach when learning both narratives. We enjoyed a meal at a fancy Arab-owned restaurant. We ate a disgusting amount of food, as usual.


Yesterday we visited the Green line, separating Israel from the West Bank (controlled by the Palestinian Authority). It was interesting to see the license plates in the W. Bank compared to in Israel. They are different colors. Despite to common belief, the Green line is not a physical barrier. In fact, you cannot even distinguish between the W. Bank and Israel. Below is a picture of my me and my classmates standing in both Israel and the W. Bank. 


Technically, citizens of the W. Bank are not allowed to enter Israel. There is almost no enforcement of this policy though in the area we were in. (We were in an area known as Bartaa). I was pretty surprised at the Graffiti I saw outside a local Arab school. 

The blue writing says "Hamas." Although Hamas is a publicly recognized terrorist organization, many Arab-Israelis/Palestinians support them.

I am starting to realize even more how difficult the situation is between the Palestinians and the Israelis. The Israelis and the Palestinians / Israeli-Arabs have completely a completely different culture, language, and narrative of the 1948 war. Like many others, I am sadly losing hope that there will be a peaceful solution in the near future.

Zaatar!

Helllooo!! I am so glad to be back bloggin :). Unfortunately my computer stopped working a couple weeks ago, but I finally have a new one! (Shout out to Papa Black!) These past couple weeks have been incredible. I am planning on staying here at least through the summer. My Arabic has really improved. All of a sudden I woke up, and could speak! (Well kind of, I still have a lot to learn..) 

Thanks to my program, I have two host families. One Arab, one Jewish. My Jewish family lives on the Kibbutz about two minutes away from me. My Arab family lives in a large city called "Baqa-Al-Gharbiyya," which translates to "Bouquet of the West." I can't begin to explain how much I've already learned about their culture and values. The father, Mufeed, (which translates to "benefit") is a local bus driver. He says he sometimes drives through my Kibbutz! I was surprised to hear his occupation, because his house is HUGE. Seriously, it's a beautiful 3-story home. His wife, faatin, is such a doll! The moment I come into her home, there is always a meal waiting for me! They have 4 kids: Maalak (translates to Angel), Mai, Al-Maas (Diamonds), and Biddih. I absolutely adore all of them! Below are Mai and Malaak. 

When I asked Maalak (18) if I could take a picture of her for my blog, she told me of course, but she had to put her hijab (head-covering) on first. Maalak and her mother wear Hjiabs outside the home, but Mai (15) and her sister do not. Malak explained to me how it is a personal choice. Her parents never pressured her to wear one. Maalak and both her parents pray 5 times a day. The other siblings do not. 

I spend time with my host family 3 hours every Thursday. Lately, I have been going back for a couple hours on the weekend as well. The first hour (on Thursday) is supposed to be devoted to English, and the rest Arabic. Conveniently, Maalak speaks fluent English. She helps translate between me and Mai if we ever can't understand each other. All of us like the show "Pretty Little Liars" (Yes I just admitted that), so we sometimes watch an episode and translate in both languages. The last time I was at their home I made Zaatar bread from scratch! Sooo delicious. 

I swear all I do in this country is study Arabic and eat!!
Last weekend, many of their relatives from the neighborhood came to see me. None of them had met an American before. One of their cousins is an English teacher! I am supposed to go shopping with her tomorrow, which I am looking forward to. I think it's pretty incredible that in the same day I can spend lunch with an Arab, Muslim family, and then have Shabbat dinner with my Jewish family on the Kibbutz. Israel is a truly unique place.

On the move

Thursday morning we started our day at Kibbutz Mishmar HaEmek. Mishmar HaEmek is different from Kibbutz Barkai, because it is NOT privatized. All Kibbutz members share their entire salary. Interestingly, members of this particular Kibbutz are considered to be part of the upper-middle class. Because all salary is divided equally, no one has to individually pay for heat/water, housing, or even food! (Breakfast/ lunch/dinner are provided in a dining hall.) Me and my fellow group members could not believe the massive amounts of food in the dining hall. We must've appeared like we've never eaten before! I had 4 types of potatoes on my plate, and may have gone up for thirds... Only thing missing was a dessert bar. Some lady told us the only way to get into Mishmar HaEmek is by marriage, since there is a very long waiting list.

One of our guides, Lydia, took us to her new home. She has been on the Kibbutz for 45 years, and made Aliyah from London.

Mishmar HaEmek has an incredible history. Founder Kibbutz members helped fight for independence in 1948. We conversed with an older man, Aleesha, for an hour about his experience on the Kibbutz. He explained to us how he was good friends with Arabs from the area before they became refugees. He used to play with them when he was young.  One day he went to visit some of them at a nearby refugee camp, and was shot in the head. To this day, he still has a bullet somewhere in his head.
Mishmar HaEmek is also home to the first Holocaust children's memorial.

This architect of the model created the woman with disproportionately longer arms. The reason behind this was because many felt as if they didn't have long enough arms to protect their children during such awful times. The memorial presently has bullet marks in it, from bullets that were shot during one of the wars.













Later that day we went to many tour sites, including a national park with several caves. These caves contained the tombs of many historical Rabbis. It was very cool to see, because it reminded me how far back the Jewish connection is with the land of Israel.

Supposedly the inspiration for the Menorah on one of the Israeli coins 

 

Ran into some Israelis practicing martial arts, naturally.

This morning I went to a birthday party with my Kibbutz host family.  Everyone there was excited to practice their English with me. I found the party to be much different than a birthday party in the states. The only form of "entertainment" was food, and each other. (opposed to a disney princess showing up, or a jumpy castle). The very first thing we did was "La-Chaim" (take a shot) to the 3 year old birthday boy. I had an Amaretto shot at 10 AM. (That's a first). I had some really interesting conversations with many of the people there. When they found out I was learning Arabic with Givat Haviva, there was a unanimous response. All expressed some sort of disappointment that there still isn't peace in this part of the Middle East. One older lady told me she participated in Givat Haviva almost 50 years ago. (Givat Haviva is the program I am studying Arabic with. Their goal is to open a dialogue between Palestinians and Israelis, and face stereotypes head-on.) I was disheartened when she told me she has lost much hope over the years. She used to be extremely active in bridging the gap, but recent times has shed some doubt. I can only hope we see a progression towards a peaceful solution in our generation.